{"id":4978,"date":"2021-08-07T13:03:47","date_gmt":"2021-08-07T03:03:47","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/cuppa500.com\/Blog\/?p=4978"},"modified":"2021-12-08T07:39:38","modified_gmt":"2021-12-07T21:39:38","slug":"lakefield-np-beyond","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/cuppa500.com\/Blog\/lakefield-np-beyond\/","title":{"rendered":"Lakefield NP & Beyond"},"content":{"rendered":"\n


<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Steve, the caretaker at Laura dance festival site was a single man, an Englishman in his mid 70\u2019s, quite a character who qualifies well for the term \u2018eccentric gentleman\u2019 with the emphasis on \u2018gentle\u2019. We hit it off after I had recognised a place he had worked at in the UK decades ago – a \u2018proving ground\u2019 for English manufactured vehicles. Same place that another old(er) friend had worked at 10 years before Steve. A place of employment which appears to have had legendary approval of it\u2019s employees, held in high esteem much like those who trained and worked for PMG in Australia. A place which encouraged the best from all & allowed a higher than usual degree of individual autonomy. Perhaps I am adding 2 +2 & making 5, but although their lives are very different our old friend & Steve seemed remarkably similar in many ways. Steve probably had the edge in the talking stakes though! For a chap who has lived a semi hermit-like lifestyle for many years, with none of the modern means of communication (no TV, radio, phone, computer etc, only contactable face to face) he always had a great deal to say\u2026 to the point of being \u2018over inclusive\u2019. Those who know me well are probably already thinking that here was a match made in heaven. However MrsTea, always polite, found the wide ranging & lengthy conversations tiring, possibly tedious, until she realised that dropping in & out of the talkfests once Steve & I had got going was not perceived as rude. She would ask later \u201cWhat did you talk about?\u201d I could only tell her that I didn\u2019t know because the conversations were always so broad & tangenital, without any more purpose other than to provide \u2018entertainment\u2019 to us both, something they succeeded in doing rather well.
On leaving we both offered Steve hugs which were accepted with moist eyes. We had had plenty of time to ourselves \u2018in between\u2019 talks, but his lonely stoicism had, we think, been shaken a little. We will seek him out when we head south again. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

From Laura we headed North, avoiding the the PDR, instead driving in to Rinyirru (Lakefield NP). The main road – Lakefield Road (dirt) stretches around 120kms northward, rejoining the PDR at Musgrave Station. We really had little idea of what to expect from the National Park (intentionally – sometimes we plan, sometimes not – both have their pro\u2019s & cons, but this time we chose to be surprised). We knew that the park was a longer way to reach Musgrave Station & was a place which appeared to be bypassed or rushed through over a couple of nights, by many on their \u2018pilgrimage\u2019 up to the \u201cTip\u2019 (of Cape York). We gave ourselves a week but found it not to be long enough, but provided a good \u2018aperitif\u2019 for a second visit on the southerly bound leg of our Cape exploration. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"
Early morning at Mick Fienn Waterhole. The first sun caused a steamy mist to rise from the water creating a ‘mystical’ ambience. One could almost imagine King Arthur & his knights emerging out of the mist. <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

There are camp sites along the length of Lakefield Road, & as expected these were the busiest. We didn\u2019t stay at any of these, instead choosing to get off the often corrugated dirt & onto the myriad of smoother (in the main) much smaller & intimate two-wheel tracks. Here we found the heart of what Rinyirru is all about. The park is divided into eastern & western sectors by the Normanby River with only one place to cross (Kalpower Crossing) we believe. Our week was spent in the western sector, with intent to explore the eastern sector when we follow the coast back down to Cooktown at a later date. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"
Most tracks were similar in nature to this in the park. Just the surroundings differed.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"\"<\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"\"<\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"\"<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

As we drove around the park, the experience was reminiscent of our drive to Walcott Inlet along the Munja Track from Mt Elizabeth Station in the Kimberley. The tracks took us through a mix of grassy savannah, with the height of the grass brushing our car windows on the sides of the tracks, open grassy woodlands, wide open plains & frequent waterholes & lagoons. Evidence everywhere told us that huge areas of the park go under water every wet season when the Normanby & other rivers flood far & wide. As the dry season progresses the floods contract leaving the lilly covered lagoons (remnant water in large depressions) & waterholes (deeper sections of river which retain sufficient water to last through the dry season when the rivers cease to flow). As with other northern rivers the amount of water which thunders through this country is awe-inspiring. Something which has to be seen to be believed! It was self evident why many parts of the park generally do not open until well into the dry tourist season. River crossings which we found dry would be rocky & very unpredictable with even a fairly shallow flow, others with water still flowing would have washed us away just weeks earlier. Black soils would have which could see a car bogged for weeks had dried out in the hot winter sun. This is croc country, & the widely spreading waters of the Wet provide passage for the crocs to locations sometimes far from the rivers. Any body of water, no matter how small, is worthy of respect & caution. If you cannot see the bottom it is always wise to assume there is a croc there , who knows you are there too! An 8 metre \u2018puddle\u2019 can hide a 7 metre croc! It is said that it is the crocs you don\u2019t see which are the most dangerous. Well, we didn\u2019t see many, a few, but we suspect that we were seen by many more! <\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"
For your (& our) amusement. We did however take the warnings seriously & were very cautious when near water.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

As I made reference to in our last post, we are not fans of the Queensland Wildlife & Parks Service (QWPS) requirements for intending campers to book ahead. Fine for those with fixed holiday itineraries but nonsensical for the many travellers like us. As expected when we checked the online booking system (on a difficult to navigate website, on an outdoor screen at a Ranger Station with no rangers around on the Sunday morning) we eventually (I did say the web site was difficult to navigate – clunky & non-intuitive is how I would describe it) found that every<\/em> camp site was booked out for the entire period we would be in the park. Bear in mind that most of the campsites are individual sites, usually with a description of how many vehicles they can accommodate at one time. Some only suitable for a single vehicle, some for up to six (for family groups etc). Bear in mind also, that we had both read about, & been told by a ranger of \u2018Ghost Bookings\u2019, made by folk who happily make block bookings for a week or longer in order to secure a particular site for the day they get there. We think that whilst understandable for those for whom this suits that it is an unfair & unreasonable arrangement for folk who travel like us. It seems (to us) that a far more ‘just\u2019 system would be to reserve some campsites for those who like to book ahead, AND to reserve some campsites for folk who turn up on a \u2018first come\/first served honesty box system as was done in the past. The problem of course, is that the pre-booking system maximises the QWPS \u2018bean-counter\u2019s\u2019 returns & avoids those who abuse honesty boxes. In the circumstances as they are currently we chose to take a punt on turning up at \u2018booked\u2019 sites. Our strategy was to arrive late afternoon prepared to share if those who had booked were accepting of this (we found that many sites were actually able to accommodate more than parks info suggested, without \u2018crowding out\u2019 others) or to move on if need be. We also checked out quite a few other sites as we drove around, keen to find sites which were \u2018solar friendly\u2019, or better still \u2018solar friendly\u2019 but with shade. The latter allowing us to place the Tvan in the shade, & the car (with it\u2019s rooftop panels) out in the sun. Over 7 nights we only shared once with folk who had pre-booked, they arrived after us, asked if we had booked the site, & when told \u2018No\u2019, said they were happy for us to stay. At one other site we shared with another couple doing the same as us. Two sites we passed by seeing they were occupied. All the other sites we checked and\/or stayed at were vacant. That the \u2018ghost bookers\u2019 had paid for our stays was something we appreciated & felt not a pang of guilt about. Away from the main Lakefield Road our estimation was that more than 90% of the sites which had been pre-booked were unused. Crazy!<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"
Camped at 5 Mile Creek. Very pleasant & the only place we saw a Saltwater Croc close up. It took fright at my approaching footsteps & hurriedly left it’s sun-basking spot for the water. Unclear whether it was the croc or I who got the biggest fright. <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

We stayed at 4 different sites, Mick Fienn Waterhole, Orange Plain Waterhole Camp 1, Brown Creek & Five Mile Creek. All were great, but the last was our favourite. A largish (4m+) \u2018Saltie\u2019 was spotted at Brown Creek, & a smaller one (2m) at five Mile Creek. Other sites we checked out were Catfish Waterhole, White Lily Lagoon & Red Lily Lagoon (all day use only) plus Hanush\u2019s Waterhole, Melaleuca Waterhole, Orange Plain Waterhole camps 2, 3 & 4, Top Whiphandle Waterhole, Bottom Whiphandle Waterhole camps 1 & 2, Bizant River, Saltwater Crossing camps 1, 2 3, & 4, & Annie River. We feel that we could easily spend a few weeks in the western side of the park alone, & that using the various camp sites as \u2018destinations\u2019 – (either to just visit, for lunch stops or to stay) is a good way to do it (for nature lovers at least).<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"<\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"\"
One of the day visit areas was Red Lily Lagoon. (Lotus flowers). The Lillies were nice but only a few were in bloom, & all facing toward the sun. Safe access was from behind so this was the best shot ‘available’. <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"\"<\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"\"
There were a couple of ‘bird highlights’ at the Lagoon however. This was a new bird to tick of our list. A Tawny Grassbird we believe (EDIT: since posting it has been suggested that this may be a Golden -headed Cisticola, but I remain uncertain. My info suggests the length of tail to be indicative of the Tawny Grassbird. Either way we’d still add to our bird count.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"\"
And a close encounter with a Buff-banded Rail.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"\"
And who could resist a pic of a distant Black-necked Stork (Jabiru) on top of a tree! \ud83d\ude42<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"\"
Often at the end of waterholes we found a series of yet to dry up smaller puddles. The green ‘shading’ made them quite pleasing to the eye, & the smaller bodies of water seemed to be attractive to smaller birds, finches in particular. This was at Melalueca Waterhole. Lots of Double-barred Finches around. <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"\"
Whilst the finches were somewhat camera shy, this Grey Fantail was happy to pose.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"\"
Toward the northern end of the park (& closer proximity to the ocean) we began to see many more of these strange trees in among the fan palms. We had seen a dead one at Horseshoe Lagoon a few weeks earlier & had discovered they are ‘Kennedy Palms’. They almost look like a cross between a Palm tree & the boab trees in WA.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"\"
Camped at the junction of Brown Creek & the tidal Bizant River. Mozzies, sandflies & the high tide mark which came over the top of high embankment (behind the camera) saw us leave after just one night. Saw our largest Saltie here, letting the strong tidal flow carry it upstream past our camp. <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"\"
Sunset wasn’t bad with the palms & termite mounds in silhouette.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"\"
One of the prettier camp spots was ‘Top Whiphandle’. Looks inviting for a dip, but there was another sign saying ‘recent croc sighting’ .<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"\"
A few metres to the right of the pic above.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"\"
A few metres to the left – same spot.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"\"
And a quick ‘selfie’ of the pair of us taken at what we thought a safe distance to turn our backs on the water after checking out the situation first!<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"\"
Up, out of the river bed the plains stretching across into Lama Lama country. Photo of MrsTea taking a photo.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"\"
And the photo MrsTea took. <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"\"
Five Mile Creek<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"\"<\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\n